An extremely long summer spilt over into a surprisingly mild fall, and I’ll admit I almost forgot how cold Moscow can be. As I write this it’s still 18˚C out and sunny, so it’s hard to wrap my head around the fact that my weather app is showing snow for next week. Next. Week. I’ve…
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Hard to believe it’s been a year since we arrived in Moscow. Apart from the cold, things have gone better than I thought they would, though it would definitely help if I could improve my Russian a bit (because spasiba and nyet can only get me so far.) We just got back from France, where…
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There’s a vibe to St. Petersburg. It’s a whiff of youthful energy and reckless abandon; a laid-back, almost lackadaisical attitude. Is it because of its proximity to water, or to Norway, the Happiest City in the World? Most probably. I vote that it’s something in the air. Our hotel is practically across St. Isaac’s Cathedral;…
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The kitsch of Izmaylovo Market is something one either loves or can’t stand. Personally I don’t mind it. But the group I’m here with – hoooo boy are they offended by it. Mission of the day: moral support for our friend, who is obsessed with getting a fur coat from the flea market. I know…
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The entrance hall of the Sanduny Bath House, Moscow’s oldest and most impressive banya, is ornate and heavy with patterns. I stand under the archways trimmed in blue and gold, the gold detailing snaking its way across the ceilings in curlicues, forming kaleidoscopic patterns under the dome. The floor underneath my dirty, snow-caked sneakers is…
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On our first morning in Moscow, Lila and I are left to our own devices because Julien is in Siberia for the week. We have zero food and zero utensils in the apartment, and no clue where to get them. “Maybe… we order?” Lila suggests timidly, wringing her hands, the habit of Shanghai’s utterly convenient,…
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We land in Moscow for our voyage de reconnaissance, the obligatory 10-day trip arranged by Jul’s company to our next posting before the actual relocation, meant for scoping out schools, choosing a district to live in, visiting potential apartments, and whatnot. It is 10 days before Christmas, and about 18 degrees lower than Shanghai. Julien…
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