There’s a vibe to St. Petersburg. It’s a whiff of youthful energy and reckless abandon; a laid-back, almost lackadaisical attitude. Is it because of its proximity to water, or to Norway, the Happiest City in the World? Most probably. I vote that it’s something in the air. Our hotel is practically across St. Isaac’s Cathedral;…
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Izmaylovo Market: Of Fur and Typewriters
The kitsch of Izmaylovo Market is something one either loves or can’t stand. Personally I don’t mind it. But the group I’m here with – hoooo boy are they offended by it. Mission of the day: moral support for our friend, who is obsessed with getting a fur coat from the flea market. I know…
Read MoreSanduny and the Temperature-Controlling Hats
The entrance hall of the Sanduny Bath House, Moscow’s oldest and most impressive banya, is ornate and heavy with patterns. I stand under the archways trimmed in blue and gold, the gold detailing snaking its way across the ceilings in curlicues, forming kaleidoscopic patterns under the dome. The floor underneath my dirty, snow-caked sneakers is…
Read MoreFlorist Gump
On our first morning in Moscow, Lila and I are left to our own devices because Julien is in Siberia for the week. We have zero food and zero utensils in the apartment, and no clue where to get them. “Maybe… we order?” Lila suggests timidly, wringing her hands, the habit of Shanghai’s utterly convenient,…
Read MoreTerracotta Warriors, and Meat on Sticks
The January air is thick and heavy with pollution in Xi’an. A pale orange mushroom hovers over the city, lights from nearby buildings diffused by the haze. Each breath feels so… unhealthy, dirty. We walk around the Ancient City, visiting the pagoda, the bell tower. It’s too cold and too polluted to stay out long. …
Read MoreThe Moscow Files: Apartment Hunting
We land in Moscow for our voyage de reconnaissance, the obligatory 10-day trip arranged by Jul’s company to our next posting before the actual relocation, meant for scoping out schools, choosing a district to live in, visiting potential apartments, and whatnot. It is 10 days before Christmas, and about 18 degrees lower than Shanghai. Julien…
Read MoreFrom A Great Height
The Shanghai World Financial Center is the second tallest building in the world. I can see it from my balcony, this huge bottle-opener-shaped monstrosity, just a block away. I can’t help imagining natural disasters toppling it over each time I look up at it – it’s so big, we all seem so helpless and tiny…
Read MoreTemple Run
It is sweltering hot in Siem Reap in May. Probably not the best time to visit Cambodia, but we make do with the vacation days we have. There is a lot I can personally relate to in this country – the tuktuks, the climate, the physicalities. The food, which is rich and soupy and toned…
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